Montanov™ 202 is a 100% natural, PEG-free oil-in-water emulsifier made from plant-based ingredients. It is highly versatile and palm oil-free, making it a sustainable choice for cosmetic formulations. Known for its long-lasting moisturizing properties, Montanov™ 202 creates glossy, ultra-light emulsions that leave a silky matte finish on the skin. It works particularly well in products for both the face and body, including creams, lotions and liquid emulsions.
Key Features
- Origin: 100% natural, palm oil-free
- Emulsifier type: oil-in-water (O/W) emulsifier
- Structure: Forms a liquid crystal lamellar structure, which improves skin hydration
- Finish: Matte, silky smooth, lightweight
- Certification: Approved by COSMOS and the Soil Association
Ideal for
- Sensitive Skin: Free of cetyl alcohol and harsh chemicals, non-comedogenic and hypoallergenic.
- Oily and Acne-Sensitive Skin: Provides a light feel with a matte finish, even when using heavier oils or butters.
- Baby care products: Gentle and protective.
Applications
- Facial creams, body lotions, hair care and makeup products (liquid foundations)
- Suitable for both thin, liquid emulsions and thicker, rich creams
Product specifications
| Feature | Details |
|---|---|
| INCI Name | Arachidyl Alcohol & Behenyl Alcohol & Arachidyl Glucoside |
| Appearance | Small pellets |
| Usage rate | 3-5% (for oil phases up to 30%) |
| Solubility | Soluble in oil, dispersible in hot water |
| Odor | Not noticeable |
| Recording speed | Creates ultra-light emulsions |
| Melting point | 74-78°C (164-172°F) |
| pH range | 5.5-7.5 |
| Load | Non-ionic |
| Why Use? | It emulsifies oil and water, forming stable emulsions with a light texture. |
| Refined/Unrefined | Only available as refined product |
| Strengths | Versatile in viscosity, improves hydration, reduces TEWL |
| Alternatives | Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate (non-natural) |
| Processing method | Hot process; recommended temperature of 85°C |
Formulation Tips
Instructions for use:
- Phase Addition: Montanov™ 202 should be added to the heated oil phase.
- Emulsify: Combine the heated oil and water phases with a high-shear mixer while still hot. Then switch to gentle stirring while cooling to avoid disturbing the liquid crystal structure.
- Cooling: Slow and natural cooling is recommended. Avoid using ice baths or high-shear mixes during cooling.
Characteristics of the Final Product:
- Glossy White Emulsion: When emulsified correctly, Montanov™ 202 creates glossy white emulsions unless colored oils or pigments are used. The emulsions are not glossy on the skin, but give a beautiful matte finish.
- Additional Thickeners: For thicker creams, add a gum in the water phase (e.g., xanthan gum) or combine with another emulsifier such as Vegetal (Cetearyl Alcohol & Cetearyl Glucoside) to improve consistency.
Advantages
- Long-Lasting Hydration: Montanov™ 202’s liquid crystal structure strengthens the skin’s lipid barrier, providing up to 5 hours of sustained hydration.
- Enhanced Stability: Ideal for formulating stable emulsions, Montanov™ 202 delays Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL) and ensures slow absorption of active ingredients.
Comparison: Montanov™ 202 vs Montanov™ 68 MB
| Feature | Montanov™ 202 | Montanov™ 68 MB |
|---|---|---|
| Hydration | Forms a liquid crystal lamellar structure for long-lasting hydration | Similar hydration, but less long-lasting |
| Viscosity Control | Creates ultra-light emulsions, requires additional thickeners for thicker creams | Creates thicker, richer emulsions without additional thickeners |
| Recommended Usage | Light lotions and liquid creams | Rich, thick creams and body butters |
| Emulsion type | Oil-in-water (O/W) | Oil-in-water (O/W) |
| Certification | COSMOS, Soil Association | COSMOS |
| Applications | Suitable for sensitive and acne-prone skin, lightweight textures | Suitable for heavier products such as body butters |
Montanov™ 202 is perfect for those looking for light, matte emulsions with long-lasting hydration, while Montanov™ 68 MB is better suited for thicker, richer formulations without the need for additional thickeners.
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